Beeswax polish

Prompted by a conversation in my comments box, I thought I would explain more about beeswax polish.
beeswax polish 1

The polish I make is made from just 2 ingredients, pure beeswax and pure turpentine. There are a couple of stages in the manufacturing process to ensure the final polish is smooth and creamy, but then these are my secrets.

Natural turpentine comes from distilled tree sap. This carries the beeswax and feeds the wood. The result is that the beeswax works deep into the wood and gives it a deep sheen, rather than a surface buff.


There are cheap versions of beeswax polish out there, but be aware and check the ingredients, as many add cheaper ingredients to bulk up the product.

They can substitute some of the beeswax for cheaper waxes (eg 50% beeswax, 50% cheap wax) and they will use artificial turpentine. This is a man made solvent, often white spirit based. The problem here is that instead of feeding the wood and helping to take the wax down into the wood, giving it a deep sheen, it evaporates quickly. This means that the wax is left sitting on the surface and so is harder to rub in. The artificial solvent also pulls the natural oils out of the wood, actually drying it out, the opposite of what you want.

Putting it simply. If you care for your furniture enough to want to use beeswax polish, then do make sure it is the real genuine product, not a cheap substitute.

I don’t make much, so it isn’t generally listed in my shop, but I do have it available for £4:50 a tin (approx 80g) plus postage of £3:50. I can also add it in with honey sales to share the postage. Send me a message if you are interested.

The 12 days of Christmas: elephant carving day 12

Before you know it we have reached twelfth night and the completion of my charging elephant.

Reality of course is that it has actually taken me about 9 months of on and off work to complete.


The final finishing element has been the tusks. They are made from antler, sourced from a National Trust deer park, where they take the naturally shed antlers and sell them to a walking stick maker. I had the tips of a couple of the antler spurs, too small for use by the stick maker.










The 12 days of Christmas: elephant carving day 10

I am now at the finishing off stage.

It can take as long to finish off all those edges and surfaces as it takes to carve the elephant to this point.

Carving a solid 3 dimensional piece has its added difficulties. By definition, at some point you will be carving with, against, and across the grain. It is across the grain that needs the sharpest of chisels if a clean finish is to be achieved.

On my elephant the cross grain is at the rear and you can see where the grain has opened up where my chisel was not razor sharp. I had to resharpen the chisels and recut across this entire area to achieve the smooth finish I wanted.


The 12 days of Christmas: elephant carving day 9

Back to the elephant’s rear end today.

The stance I am going for is that of an elephant ready to charge.

This means that it is standing with its back legs pushed forward, its head at a slight angle to its body, so that it presents a large mass, and finally ears flared wide, again to show the largest mass to the opponent.